Example here I am trying to create something slightly larger than the average persons head.
I am getting my models from turbosquid and also custom made. What do I need to prep the 3D model?
Also I don’t want scanlines if possible, you can’t really see scanlines here
http://down0.80157-down0.dna.qbrick.com/80157-down0/thumbs/31/616476\_9819cb\_large.jpg
It was 3D printed to plastic then silicone looked like it was brushed in.
Hi Scott, The best technologies for producing models with smooth finish with very little post print sanding and polishing are the ones using resin like SLA, 3D systems Multijet and Stratasys Polyjet. The size can be a limitation for SLA but the Multijet and Polyjet technologies that are very similar can print big objects. What is the size of the print you would need? Do you have a model ready for quotation?
Generally the slicer can scale the model so you could take your model and make it 105% for instance and see how that works. Or the person making the model could scale it also.
That’s right, and it can also be scaled using a software that can modify STL files like Meshmixer or Meshlab.
Hey Scott,
as everyone else mentioned before it is very easy to rescale your models using any software that can open an STL file. On the other hand every 3D printer has it’s own software ( open source or not ) that you can rescale the model during data preparation ( supports, orientation ) etc. Further more ideally your model should be printed with a resin 3D printer. Truth be told even at 25 microns layers are visible to naked eye for someone who is experienced with 3D printing and there are a few ways to work around this. You can minimize them by optimizing the model through orientation, you can use some kind of coating to make all the surfaces even ( you mentioned silicon so i am assuming you are making a mold or add it on top ) or you can very slighlty sandblast the part ( which can be tricky depending on detail ). If any of these solutions works for you you can print even at 50 or 100 microns saving time and money. Also from experience i can tell you that some resins due to composition can provide better aesthetic results with less to 0 visible layers. If you can give more information on what is the process you are using from print to end product i might be able to help you a bit more. Feel free to ask should you have more questions 
Cheers,
Greg
People have been touting SLA for this project, but since the parts will require post processing anyway, I say stick with FDM and use a brush on coating to smooth the part out. Whether you then make molds or just paint the piece up, you’ll probably be saving quite a bit on time and money with FDM, and more than likely needing less supports and removal, etc. Any production method that builds up layer by layer will technically have lines, though some techniques will leave them much less visible. But for a project that will be coated or painted, it’s rarely worth it at these sizes to go for SLA or SLS.
So here is what I was asking of my 3D modelers below
"This is the model you will be using
https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/3d-model-donald-trump/1134556
I need the hair removed from the head and eyebrows.
Wrinkles/Pores added but not too exaggerated.
Smirk
I attached a file to show the exact expression I want. Must match as close to photo perfection as possible.
http://www.gettyimages.com/event/donald-trump-holds-campaign-rally-in-fort-worth-607003065?esource=SEO_GIS_CDN_Redirect#republican-presidential-candidate-donald-trump-speaks-at-a-rally-at-picture-id512672588 here is a link in case you cannot download the attachment.
We will be 3D printing this model and then using the INSIDE of the print to pour in silicone and make silicone castings, exactly to what you see here around 31 seconds
http://www.cnn.com/videos/us/2016/10/29/trump-mask-orig.cnn
He paints in the silicone for castings. So he is using the 3D prints inverted side to make a positive casting.
If there is any more clarification you need please contact me, otherwise please apply now, looking to get this done within a week. I will choose you and send you the model to modify."
I guess my question to everyone at 3dhubs, is what else should I be asking before having my model made?
Hs no one realised in almost every slicer the grid on the ‘virtual bed’ is actually spaced with intervals of 1cm? We use this along with specifit re-size options to get everything resized in the appropriate slicer for each printer.